THE CHRONICLES OF MILOTH MAMA

Nestled by the Yamuna River, across from the Taj Mahal, is the beautiful garden complex called Mehtab Bagh — the “Moonlight Garden” of Agra. This Mughal-era garden in charbagh (four square garden) layout provides a wonderful view of the Taj Mahal, making it a popular spot for travelers and photographers. Mehtab Bagh is not just a viewing point; it is a stunning example of Mughal landscape architecture, rich in history and cultural significance.

“A garden is a delight to the eye and a solace for the soul” – Saadi Shirazi

HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE OF MEHTAB BAGH

Mehtab Bagh was commissioned by Emperor Babur in the early 16th century, making it one of the earliest Mughal gardens in India. Later, Emperor Shah Jahan, the visionary behind the Taj Mahal, identified Mehtab Bagh as the perfect location for a reflection garden. It was designed to complement the grandeur of the Taj Mahal across the Yamuna River.

Legends suggest Shah Jahan even planned a black marble mausoleum for himself in Mehtab Bagh to mirror the Taj Mahal — an idea that remains a subject of historical intrigue. Although no such structure exists, the garden’s alignment with the Taj Mahal creates an ethereal symmetry, enhancing the visual poetry of the site.

Around the 1750s, Sawai Jai Singh commissioned an Agra city plan, now preserved at the City Palace Museum in Jaipur. This plan marks a garden called ‘Another Imperial Garden’ (‘Bag mahaitab patisahi’ or Bagh-i-Mahtab Padshahi) at the place where the excavations by Archaeological Survey of India have been carried out during the year 1993-1994. Mehtab Bagh is the final part in the series of gardens that began with the Aram Bagh (Ram Bagh) to the north on the left bank of the Yamuna opposite the Taj Mahal.

Later, the garden is believed to have come into the possession of Raja Man Singh Kachhawa of Amer (1550-1614), supported by the nearby village named Kachhpura.

GARDEN LAYOUT OF MEHTAB BAGH

“The Mughal garden is not just a space but a vision of paradise on Earth” – Anonymous

Mehtab Bagh is the epitome of the charbagh (four-part) garden layout, a signature of Persian and Mughal garden design. This geometric style divides the garden into four symmetrical sections with water channels and walkways, symbolizing the Islamic vision of paradise.

• Symmetry and Geometry: The garden’s perfect alignment with the Taj Mahal demonstrates Mughal precision in architecture. Each pathway and water channel is carefully planned to create harmonious vistas.
• Water Features: Reflecting pools and fountains once adorned the garden, amplifying the Taj Mahal’s reflection on moonlit nights.
• Floral Splendor: Today, the garden blooms with fragrant flowers, shaded trees, and lush lawns — a testament to Mughal horticultural practices.

Unlike other Mughal tombs, the Taj Mahal is curiously positioned at the end rather than the center of a garden and of the same width as the garden of the Taj Mahal, and situated exactly opposite to it. This has led to suggestions that the river behind the mausoleum should be seen as the east-west axis of the gardens, and that another building was planned to be built on the opposite bank with a connecting bridge.

This theory was further extended and gave rise to the speculation that the emperor intended to build his own tomb here, as a counter-image in black marble of the mausoleum of his wife, linked to it by a bridge over the river. This story was reported by the French traveler Jean- Baptiste Tavernier, who was at Agra in 1640-41 and 1665. Excavations carried out by the Archaeological Survey of India in the 1990s, however, found no evidence to substantiate that assumption of black Taj. The garden historian Elizabeth Moynihan has suggested that the Mehtab Bagh was conceived as a place from which to view the Taj Mahal, of which the reflection would have been captured by a large pool in the center of the now ruined riverfront terrace.

The garden’s close relationship with the Taj is acknowledged in some early plans where it is shown as part of the overall complex, but in later maps it seems to have been abandoned, in all probability due to flooding. The antiquity of the garden is corroborated by a letter of Aurangzeb which he addresses to his father stating the condition of the garden after the floods of 1652.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SIGNIFICANCE

Recent excavations have revealed a huge octagonal tank furnished with 25 fountains, a small central tank and a baradari (building or pavilion with twelve doors designed to allow free flow of air) on the east. The site is also associated with the myth of black Taj, but the excavations have provided ample evidence for a garden complex. Brief description about some important excavations undertaken by Archaeological Survey of India at the site of Mehtab Bagh are as below:

EXCAVATION DURING 1979-1980

They have revealed a garden laid out in rectangular plan, enclosed by brick walls and a thick wall with corner bastions on the river side. The foundation of the enclosure walls, lying buried under thick deposit of sand and silt were partly exposed with a view to finding out its dimensions and geometry. An octagonal tank of burnt bricks, measuring 21 x 14 x 4 cm, was also exposed. The tank has foliated edge in lime similar in design to the rock-cut lotus garden of Babur (Bagh-i-Nilofar) at Dholpur. This shows that the site was originally laid out by Babur and was maintained by later Mughal kings.

There is no evidence of having a raised plinth similar to that of the Taj Mahal. However, the possibility of Shah Jahan’s intention to have a simple tomb over his grave in Mehtab Bagh cannot be ruled out. The important antiquities from the site include Chinese and glazed Mughal pottery, pieces of copper spouts of fountains and huge quantity of fragments of terracotta pipes and blue glazed tiles.

EXCAVATION DURING 1993-1994 and 1996-1997

These excavations have revealed evidences of a garden, including fragments of marble spring fountains, terracotta pipes, and drains, indicating Shahjahani architecture. Like a typical Mughal garden, the Mehtab Bagh was conceived on a ‘Char bagh’ pattern with water-channels and walkways (khiyabans) dividing the whole into multiples of four, and the whole surrounded within a walled enclosure.

In the eastern periphery, a series of quadrants were excavated which revealed a structure built of lakhauri bricks using lime-mortar. Although the structure above the plinth level has completely disappeared, but yet, the plan suggested that it might have been a bangla or baradari which consisted of an oblong central hall and veranda flanked by a small chamber on either side.

The northern periphery of the site, close to the village Kachhpura, had suffered due to the robbing of building material as well as rubble. The excavation revealed the traces of stone kerbs in the projected portion indicates the existence of a gateway in the middle portion of the northern boundary wall.

In the central area, the excavation revealed the existence of a masonry tank. The interior of the tank is basically a square with chamfered corner at the bottom. The chamfered portion is superimposed with molded decoration of cusped design. The southern periphery of the site is dominated by a large octagonal pool as revealed by the previous as well as present excavation. On the bottom floor of the pool twenty-five circular pits were traced in a particular geometrical pattern. The scooping of two pits ascertained that the pits were meant for fountain spouts and its devices. The fountain was linked with each other by an underground pipeline made of glazed terracotta pipes for uniform supply of water. The spouts were made of marble. The pool comprises a very wide embankment wall rising to two terraces.

LANDSCAPE

The Horticulture wing of Archaeological Survey of India has initially developed a traditional Mughal garden of Charbagh pattern as revealed from the excavations. There are more than forty plant species which were grown in the Mughal gardens.

The different species of tree, shrubs and plants such as Azadirachta indica (Neem), Mimusopselengi (Molsari), Morus alba (Shehtoot), Psidium guava (Amrud), Eugenia jambolana (Jamun), Hibiscus (Gurhal), Citrus sps. (Nimbu), Jatropha (Ratnajot), TMC (Chandni), Neriumodorum (Lal Kaner), Thevetianerifolia (Peela Kaner), Centlam album (Chandan), Lylies, Pomegranate (Anar), Ashok etc. have been planted.

This garden has been developed to have a green belt to mitigate pollution around Taj Mahal. The herbage was planted in such a way that tall trees follow the short ones, then shrubs, and lastly flowering plants. Some of these plants produce bright-colored flowers that shine in the moonlight.

HERITAGE AND CULTURAL IMPORTANCE

As part of the larger Taj Mahal complex, Mehtab Bagh is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its preservation reflects the cultural and artistic vision of the Mughal Empire, emphasizing the blend of Persian, Timurid, and Indian architectural elements.

The garden serves as a serene escape from Agra’s bustling streets, offering travelers a tranquil space steeped in history and beauty.

NEARBY MONUMENTS AND ATTRACTIONS

• Taj Mahal: No visit to Mehtab Bagh is complete without marveling at the Taj Mahal from its northern banks.

• Agra Fort: A UNESCO World Heritage site showcasing red sandstone architecture and Mughal grandeur.

• Itmad-ud-daula’s Tomb: Often called the “Baby Taj,” this monument is a precursor to the Taj Mahal’s intricate marble inlay work.

• Chini Ka Rauza: A lesser-known gem, this tomb features stunning Persian-style glazed tile work.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

The ideal time to visit Mehtab Bagh is during sunrise or sunset when the Taj Mahal’s reflection in the Yamuna River creates a mesmerizing spectacle. The cooler months from October to March offer pleasant weather, perfect for exploring the garden’s lush landscapes.

CONCLUSION

Mehtab Bagh stands as a symbol of Mughal vision, symmetry, and artistry. Its historical roots, architectural brilliance, and cultural significance make it a must-visit destination in Agra. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, architecture lover, or a seeker of serene beauty, Mehtab Bagh promises an unforgettable experience.